Williamsburg, VA

Another Christmas tradition for my family is our annual trip to Williamsburg, VA. Located within close proximity of Jamestown and Yorktown, Williamsburg is a town rich with history of the colonial and revolutionary periods. Williamsburg is also home to The College of William & Mary, the second-oldest institution of higher learning in the country (number one being Harvard). A so-called "public ivy" and my father's alma mater, W&M was at the top of my list when applying to colleges, and I received my letter of acceptance on the glorious day of March 24th of this year. However, the impending costs of law school caused me to decide to remain in the state of Maryland for at least my first two years of college. This way, William & Mary's Marshall-Wythe School of Law may be less of a financial burden without the cost of a undergrad degree.

*****

After a 5 hour (usually 3) car ride from Salisbury to Williamsburg, the first thing my family did after dinner was head to Merchants Square, a shopping area in between the college and the colonial district itself. Conceived by the Rockefellers in 1927, Merchants Square may be the oldest planned shopping district in the country. While there are many shops and restaurants within the square, I will take time to highlight only a few of them.

Scotland House, Ltd.
I hold Williamsburg in the same vein as two other towns: Easton, MD (see my last post), and Lexington, VA. Perhaps a reason for this is the fact that all three have (or in Easton's case, had) a Celtic shop. Scotland House is Williamsburg's Celtic emporium, with 90% of its stock imported from England, Scotland, and Ireland.

Scotland House carries a wide variety of family tartan scarves, hats, and ties (being a bargain at only $30). They also carry the flags of the UK and Ireland. While I was taking classes at William & Mary two summers ago, one of my friends decided to buy a Union Jack... on Independence Day!

It wouldn't be a Anglo/Celtic store without some fine waxed cotton jackets. While not from Barbour, the jackets are of equal (if not better) quality and equal price.

Tartan? Check! Waxed jackets? Check! What could make this store even better? Harris Tweed! And Scotland House carries plenty of it!

While they didn't carry our family's tartan, they did carry our crest on a mug.

Ocean Palm

Ocean Palm is a Lilly Pulitzer Signature Store, with a sister location in Virginia Beach. I have bought many gifts from here, but not many items for myself. Their men's department is confined to a single shelf, consisting of needlepoint goods from Smathers & Branson and ties, shirts, and hats from Collared Greens, a Southern Prep brand I have mentioned before that manufactures exclusively in the US. However, this time, I received a pleasant surprise with the new addition of Lilly Pulitzer menswear. For a while, Lilly had stopped manufacturing menswear, turning its already sold apparel into collectors items that sell for hefty sums on eBay. I own a single blue polo shirt from Lilly which I found at Uptown Cheapskate for only $10. It is a medium, but runs much larger than that (buyers beware). While my shirt is in a subtle light blue, the rest of Lilly's menswear is very loud, even for GTH. Please tread lightly when buying and wearing.

The Ocean Palm is carrying a selection of Lilly ties and a single pair of shorts until the next collection is released in the spring. While I love the patterns of the ties, they sadly happen to be made in China (and sell for $78). 

Wythe Candy & Gourmet Shop

By far one of the most famous stores in Merchants Square is the Wythe Candy Shop. Its gourmet sweets are made in front of customers and placed in the store's enormous display counter. It also sells basic prepackaged candies and specialty sodas of the area.

The store is named after the same family of the Marshall-Wythe Law School of William & Mary.

The Trellis

One of the nicest restaurants in Williamsburg is The Trellis in Merchants Square. Owned by the same family as several other downtown restaurants, it specializes in upscale American fare for a price comparable to the taverns of the colonial district. I usually order the steamed mussels, which is an appetizer large enough to make a meal. Both times I have eaten here were on the Fourth of July, and with friends from my William & Mary classes.

The trellis of The Trellis. You know a place is classy when you can hear Leon Bridges playing on the inside.

R.W. Bryant Ltd.

The Trad store of Williamsburg. Owned and operated by Rusty Bryant since 1986, the store specializes in Trad style, while still carrying contemporary Preppy staples to cater towards the college population. With Gitman Brothers for the lawyer, and Southern Tide for the pre-law student, this store has lasted and will continue to last as long as Williamsburg stays the Williamsburg we know. But as Mr. Bryant told me, it's one of the few stores of its kind left.

Having one of the largest blazer and sport coat collections I have ever seen, R.W. Bryant offers a wide range in price and quality. Spanning from Afazzy to Southwick Clothiers, a customer is nearly always likely to find what he is looking for.

R.W. Bryant is also a Barbour retailer, offering the signature waxed jackets and other merchandise such as shirts and slippers. They also carried the wax I sought on my trip to Easton, but the salesman recommended sending the coat back to the company itself for its rewaxing rather than buying a can. These days, it's rare that a store will put a customer before profit like this, and I am happy to say R.W. Bryant will have me as a customer for years and years to come because of it.

In addition to offering the finest menswear in Williamsburg, R.W. Bryant also offers a humidor full of *quality made cigars.

Honorable Mentions

While I did not get to visit or mention them during this trip to Williamsburg, here are several other stores and restaurants in and near Merchants Square I felt were worth giving a shout out to.

1. Blue Talon Bistro- Fine French dining featuring escargot. A favorite spot of mine for breakfast and lunch. 
2. The Cheese Shop- The name says it all. Also a popular sandwich shop for lunch. Don't forget to try the house dressing! Outdoor seating all year round due to limited indoor space. 
3. The Craft House- Sells Christmas decorations, jewelry, pewter, etc. Need something for your wife/mother/grandmother/sister/aunt/girlfriend? Get it here.
4. Aroma's Cafe- Coffee shop specializing in light breakfast fare. Packed on the weekends.
5. Dog Street Pub- Bar setting with fun pub food. Optional outdoor seating for warm days.
6. Berret's Seafood- Oyster bar and upscale dining. Outside corn hole games popular during summertime.

******

Colonial Williamsburg

My family and I spent the majority of our trip in the town's colonial district. Stretching from Merchant's Square to the colonial capitol building, Duke of Gloucester Street is closed off to cars, and offers an array of trade shops, taverns, and other historical sites for visitors. Some are accessible only with certain passes, which my family does not bother with purchasing. All of what we have come to love is available to the public.

Bruton Parish Church. Active since at least 1715, it is a famous landmark in Williamsburg's colonial district. I have artwork featuring the church in my room back in Salisbury.

The Governor's Palace. The building is accessible with passes purchased from the Colonial Williamsburg foundation itself. It features a large maze out back. During Christmastime, each window is adorned with a wreath.

The end of Duke of Gloucester Street is marked by the colonial capitol building. It housed the Virginia House of Burgesses and later House of Delegates until 1779 when the capital was moved to Richmond.

The colonial district also offers several historic taverns as dining options, a bake shop, outdoor markets, and several retail stores. While I didn't get pictures of them, I recommend them to anyone who decides to visit this wonderful town!

*****

The College of William & Mary

Located across the road from Merchants Square, the W&M bookstore is technically located in the colonial district of Williamsburg. It doubles as a fully stocked Barnes and Noble as well, and has a Starbucks cafe on its second level (Warning: Does not accept Starbucks gift cards, but does accept B&N ones). Book signings are frequent, as well are sightings of my former classmates from past summer classes. Two winters ago, I by chance ran into my friend Christian from Houston, currently a freshman at Columbia. This year, I was blessed with seeing my friend Campbell, now a sophomore at W&M, as well as my former professor Dr. Jim Whittenburg, also a professor of my father's.

A sea of green and gold apparel, the W&M bookstore offers a wide variety of college gear for a 20% discount to those with a W&M ID. Salisbury University's bookstore really needs to step up its game. Want even cheaper W&M gear?  Go to the Campus Shop on Prince George Street.

Before a time of hoodies, there was this OG. The college sweater. An Ivy style hallmark, W&M comes in three forms: v-neck, crew neck, and cardigan. All three send an Animal House vibe. Very expensive though, and imported.

Across Richmond Road from Merchants square is William & Mary's "Ancient Campus".

A side view of the Wren Building, W&M's signature structure (UVA : Rotunda :: W&M : Wren Building). It is the oldest academic building in the U.S. still in use. My father defended his dissertation in this building.

A Merry Christmas from Governor Lord Botetourt and I.
Wayfarer Sunglasses (RayBan) Italy
Bedale Waxed Jacket (Barbour) England
Tattersall OCBD (L.L. Bean) USA
Cashmere Sweater (Brooks Brothers) Scotland
Rugby Scarf (William & Mary)
Casual Chinos (Brooks Brothers)
*Bean Boots (L.L. Bean) USA

• RayBan Wayfarer Sunglasses- See other posts.
• Barbour Bedale Jacket- A year ago, a R.W. Bryant salesman was the one who suggested I start with a Bedale vs a Beaufort. For more, see other posts.
• L.L. Bean Tattersall OCBD- Inherited from family friend. It has a flap-button pocket similar to J. Press. Can be worn year round. Made in USA.
• Brooks Brothers Cashmere Sweater- See other posts.
• William & Mary Rugby Scarf- Borrowed from my father. The stripes and colors have caused people to compliment me on my "Harry Potter scarf". And each time, I coldly correct them that it is in fact a Public Ivy scarf. As I have said before, DON'T WEAR GEAR OF COLLEGES YOU HAVE NO FAMILY OR PERSONAL CONNECTION TO! If you do, you will be inviting a very uncomfortable conversation, or this might happen. 
• Brooks Brothers Casual Chinos- See other posts.
• L.L. Bean Boots- See other posts.

******

Merry Christmas to all, and to all a good night!

*Smoking tobacco is shown to cause cancer. While not as addictive or as harmful as cigarette smoking, these risks should be still known when pipe or cigar smoking. 

Stopping by Woods on a Snowy Afternoon + Easton, MD

Hello readers! Due to final papers and exams, I have not had the time to compose a post for my second New York City trip. While that post will be coming soon, I have taken the time to put together this cumulative post from the events of this current and last weekend. Enjoy!

*****

Snowbound Vol. II

Salisbury typically gets its first major snow of winter in January or February. When I heard we would be in for snow two Fridays ago, I shrugged the forecast off and went about with my usual business. Salisbury's location on the Delmarva peninsula usually causes any snow to turn into rain once it comes our way. Little did I know of what was in store for my little town.

Aside from our Christmas lights, my house was completely obscured by the snow. We got a solid 8 inches!

The snow started around 2:00 pm, and began to stick after three hours, turning the roads into a nightmare. It snowed the following day as well, but not nearly as hard as Friday night. However, this didn't stop my house from losing power around 9 Saturday evening. The next day, most of the roads had been cleared, so I decided to venture out into the countryside.

A hidden creek in the woods on the outskirts of Salisbury. An equestrian dirt road once ran beside it, but it has now been forgotten.

The woods were also once frequented by Salisbury's defunct fox hunt club. My father, who grew up near these woods, remembers the foxhounds occasionally ending up on his property.

Town & Country
Wayfarer Sunglasses (RayBan) Italy
Bedale Waxed Jacket (Barbour) England
Blackwatch Scotch Flannel (L.L. Bean)
Cotton Crewneck (St. John's Bay)
Chinos (Brooks Brothers)
Bean Boots (L.L. Bean) USA

• RayBan Wayfarer Sunglasses- See earlier posts.
• Barbour Bedale Waxed Jacket- In need of a rewaxing due to heavy use this fall and past winter. For more, see other posts.
• L.L. Bean Blackwatch Flannel- Passed over from grandfather. Woolrich, Pendleton, and L.L. Bean reign supreme when it comes to where one should buy their flannel shirts. I currently own three flannel shirts including the one in the picture, one from Sears, and a brighter colored one from Vineyard Vines. My one from L.L. Bean by far trumps the other two. Bean offers a wide selection of certified tartan patterns, with my shirt being in blackwatch.
• St. John's Bay Cotton Crewneck Sweater- Passed over from grandfather. Due to its wear and large size, I have reserved this sweater for weekends or days at home. St. John's Bay is essentially J.C. Penney's attempt at coastal New England style. While I tend to steer away from most department store brands, I do not condemn St. John's Bay to where Alfani sits. It has been around since the 80's, and sweaters I own from them give a vibe similar to vintage L.L. Bean (but sadly aren't made in the USA). However, I would never seek one out. As with Stafford and Club Room, take it or leave it.
• Brooks Brothers Casual Chinos- See other posts.
• L.L. Bean Duck Boots- My most worn shoe of the season being put to real use in the snow. For more, see other posts. 

********

Easton, MD

My family has the tradition of taking yearly day trip to the small town of Easton, MD around Christmastime. While we typically go closer to Thanksgiving, my schedule made us push our trip forward by several weeks. Easton is pretty much summarized by this excerpt from a 1984 Time Magazine article on the town's annual Waterfowl Festival:

“Catalog freaks would recognize Easton as an L.L. Bean kind of town. On second thought, that may be a little narrow. It is a Bean-Gokeys-Orvis-Eddie Bauer-Lands End kind of town; it spreads its trade around. Topsiders, penny loafers, khaki pants, monogrammed sweaters, oxford cloth shirts, lamb suede jackets and the ever present tweed, to say nothing of argyle socks, contribute heavily to the Easton uniform. Easton was preppie when preppie wasn’t cool. Ducks embellish its mailboxes; there are ducks on its welcome mats. It is a place of fine old houses hugging tidy streets. Well-fed cats walk its alleys with the air of taxpayers; they do not prowl.”

On the way to Easton, we drove through a small community known as Trappe. My late grandfather lived here for a time. I mentioned this area in my post on Oxford, MD as being home for a country gentleman, and I will hold to this statement. 

A patrician duck hunter's paradise, Talbot County has also attracted the attention of notable Washingtonians, including Dick Cheney and Donald Rumsfeld, both of whom have vacation homes in the nautical town of Saint Michaels. Ever wonder where Wedding Crashers was filmed/took place? Saint Michaels and Talbot County.

Prime land for a country estate. 

Our scenic route through Trappe led us directly into Easton. As it lies on US Route 50 many pass through a part of Easton on their way to Ocean City, MD. However, the few who venture in further are treated to one of the nicest (and also richest) small towns in Maryland.

One of Easton's most famous landmarks is the Tidewater Inn, a hotel and restaurant that has hosted Elvis Presley, Elizabeth Taylor, Bing Crosby, JFK, and Robert Mitchum (another Trappe resident).

Easton has been host to a number of men's stores over the years. One of my favorites was a Celtic store that sold tartan ties from Scotland. Sadly, the store closed a few years ago, and has had its storefront replaced by Sailor, a boutique transplanted from Saint Michaels specializing in contemporary preppy brands such as Vineyard Vines, Patagonia, Southern Marsh, etc. While I usually make an effort to visit Sailor, today I decided to let another store be the focus of my visit: Berrier Ltd. Berrier is the family namesake of the father and son who own the store, and specializes in a clothing one may find on an English country gentleman. 

Berrier offers a large selection of tweed jackets and vests. It is also a retailer of Dubarry, a renowned Irish brand famous for its boots and waxed jackets.

Berrier's offers the classics of men's fragrances, including Royall Bayrhum, and a touch of the region, Chesapeake Bay Spyce.

After leaving Berrier's, I headed to Trumpeter Swan antiques, one of Easton's many antique emporiums.

Trumpeter Swan antiques is owned and managed by a man named Keith Davidson, who shares my affinity for herringbone sport coats and OCBDs. After getting into a conversation about his Dubarry waxed jacket during my visit last year, Mr. Davidson offered me a job helping post merchandise to eBay. While I wish I could have taken the job, my fuel expenses would have skyrocketed due to the hour long commute.

Mr. Davidson also specializes in the sale of decoys, one of the town's claims to fame due to the Waterfowl Festival.

I next headed across the street to Hill's Drugstore. This pharmacy is not your typical CVS or Walgreen's, as it still has the soda counter and diner of yesteryear's drugstores .

The past survives at Hill's Drugstore on Dover Street. Aside from being internally remodeled in 2007, little else has changed about the nearly 90 year old pharmacy and soda fountain.

You know you're in a Trad/Preppy/Ivy drugstore when the only reading glasses they sell are P3 style.
Tattersall OCBD (L.L. Bean) USA
Wool Cableknit Crewneck Sweater (Bass)
Bedale Waxed Jacket (Barbour) UK

• L.L. Bean Tattersall OCBD- Borrowed from my father. Visibly fraying at the collar and cuffs but still doing its job, this shirt is straight out of the L.L. Bean heyday, and is made in the USA.
• Bass Cableknit Crewneck- I can't recall from where I bought this sweater, as I have owned it for years. Wool sweaters are my go-to for sub-50 degree days, and this particular sweater provides extra warmth due to being a size larger than most of my sweaters. Due to this size issue, I rarely wear it without a jacket on top.

After leaving the drug store, I headed to Albright's Gun Shop which was right next door. Not to buy a gun, but to look for wax dressing for my Barbour jacket. The store is probably the closest Barbour retailer to Salisbury. While they were fully stocked with jackets, vests, and shirts, Albright's unfortunately was not carrying any dressing at that moment.

In addition to carrying Barbour , Albright's is also an Orvis retailer.  Easton's duck hunting culture really couldn't be farther from the rednecks of Duck Dynasty.

After my failed search for the Barbour dressing, I decided to go to a place I hadn't visited at all over the years I had been coming to Easton, and that was the *Easton Cigar and Smoke Shop. Years ago Salisbury once had a similar place called Watson's Smoke House. My grandfather remembers it as being a popular store to prank call when he was a boy due to it carrying Prince Albert (a tobacco) in a can ("don't you think you ought to let him out?"). In current times, our town would not be able to support such an establishment today (#VapeNation). However, Easton is the perfect location for those Orvis clad gentlemen to purchase and smoke their Montecristos in the shop's lounge.

Tucked aside from the main hustle of Washington and Dover Streets, Easton Cigar and Smoke Shop sits in one of Easton's historic neighborhoods in a building far different from the smoke shop I visited in North Carolina.

The smoke shop also offers a wide selection of pipes, and not the pot smoking kind.

In addition to traditional tobacco blends, ECSS also offers several inhouse blends named after rivers in Talbot County. They include Tred Avon, Choptank, and Miles.

After my visit to the smoke shop, I rejoined my family and returned home to Salisbury! Merry Christmas Easton! I'll see you next year!!!

**********

*Smoking tobacco is shown to cause cancer. While not as addictive or as harmful as cigarette smoking, these risks should be still known when pipe or cigar smoking.